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Meru towers

Tiered shrines with black palm-fiber roofs, symbols of the holy mountain

The meru is the most striking silhouette in a Balinese temple: a slender shrine rising in a stack of tiered roofs, like a pagoda. It represents Mount Meru, the mythical mountain at the center of the universe and home of the gods. In Bali this cosmic mountain is also closely identified with the island's own volcanoes, above all Mount Agung, the most sacred peak on the island.

A meru always has an odd number of roofs, from three up to eleven. The number reflects the status of the deity or deified ancestor honored there, with eleven tiers reserved for the most important. The roofs are traditionally thatched with ijuk, the black fiber of the sugar palm, which is durable and gives the towers their dark, shaggy texture. Merus stand in the innermost courtyard of a temple.

Some of the island's most photographed views include merus. At Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, an eleven-tiered meru dedicated to Siwa and Parwati seems to float on the lake. At Pura Taman Ayun, rows of merus honor the deified rulers of the old kingdom of Mengwi. At Besakih, many merus rise up the slope of Mount Agung, creating a dramatic skyline against the volcano.

Highlights

  • Eleven-tiered meru at Ulun Danu Beratan
  • Rows of merus at Taman Ayun
  • Black ijuk palm-fiber thatch
  • Merus climbing the slopes at Besakih

Good to know

  • Count the roofs: the more tiers, the more important the deity enshrined.
  • Go early morning at Ulun Danu Beratan for calm water and soft light on the meru.
Bali: Culture, Religion & Traditions cover
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